Izikaya Japanese Pub

Ok, so it’s probably pretty lame that my first tip for tourists is about nightlife.  If you came here with the sole purpose of getting your party on, you’ve come to the wrong town.  Gyeongju ain’t got nothing on the big cities for live music, dance clubs or western style bars.  Still, for it’s size, it can still hold it’s own.

London Hoff, on the 2nd Floor

After a long day of hiking, biking or seeing sights, you’ve earned a decent meal and a drink or two, right?  But, unlike most Korean cities, downtown Gyeongju is dead as a doornail after 8 pm.  I’ve met more than few tourists downtown after dark who were wondering where the @#$% the party went.

Yuppie Bar

The answer is a 2,200 won taxi ride away: the neighborhood of Seonggeondong, just across the Seocheon river from Dongguk University (student pop. 10,000).   Seonggeondong is a 6 by 6 block area littered with bars, restaurants, norebangs (karaoke rooms),  coffee shops, etc.  Just don’t expect anything too fancy as it caters to a younger crowd; mostly a mix of Uni. students and locals.

Sangalae Dakgalbi Restaraunt

As for restaurants, samgyeopsal (Korean BBQ) is huge here, along with dakgabli (spicy chicken stir-fry) and any other Korean cuisine that’s grilled, cheap and goes well with drinking.  The variety is descent, generally cheap,  and includes a few foreign joints too.   If you’re not in the mood for Korean, you can try Japanese (Izakaya, Robadayaki, etc.), Chinese (Chin Chin, China Cook),  Italian (Gratzi & the new Gratzi Hoff) and Vietnamese (Oranee).

Showcase Bar

For bars, throw a rock and you’ll hit a couple at least.  Most are “hoff” style bars catering to the Uni. students with big tables, cheap pitchers of beer, soju and requisite bar food (London Hoff, Paul, M Bar, etc.).  There’s also a fair share of bars catering to the business crowd (Martini, Zzxyxx, etc.).  For something different try the second floor “S” bar for chilled out vibe with wine, floor cushions and private booths, or “Yans” for a homey atmosphere, whiskey, coffee and live music every night around 9 pm.

Wa Bar

If you feel like chatting up the local English-speaking expat scene, you might try the Wa Bar (with imported bottles and draft beer), Yuppie Bar (cheaper bottles and descent cocktails, but bad name), Showcase (Redrock on tap, good cocktails and trendy decor), or the London Hoff (cheap pitchers, soju and bizarre neoclassical plaster reliefs).

UPDATE:  As usual, I’m a bit slow getting things posted here.  For the last month or two the popular Friday night spot for the English-speaking expat crew has been the Gratzi Hoff.  The cheery and affable owner, Mr. Bae has been offering 15,000 won for all you can eat and drink beer, jack & coke and Gratzi style, thin crust pizza.  Not a bad deal at all (if for the pizza alone), but it only lasts from 9:00 to 12:00 pm.  I suggest getting there early to get your money’s worth.  

Jun Bae, owner of the Gratzi Hoff, showing off his chops on the sax (photo by Kayley Gavin-Miles)

Gratzi Hoff also has a stage and sound gear, so Mr. Bae holds an informal open mike night on Fridays.  Feel free to come and show your stuff, or chill and catch Mr. Bae blow a few jazz tunes on the sax.  Gratzi Hoff is in the alley straight across the main drag from the 7-11 below Izakaya Japanese pub.  It’s halfway down the block on the left, just past the DVD bang.  Follow the crowds and the English voices up the staircase to the 2^nd floor.

Directions: To get to Seonggeondong, tell the cabbie to take you to the intersection of “Dongdae Sagori” (no more than 2,200 won from downtown).  Follow the bright lights, loud music and drunken Uni. students in towards the river and explore.

View Larger Map

Share on Facebook