Home of the Choe Clan
Just 5 minutes around the corner from Cheomseondae Observatory is the historical neighborhood of Hwangnam-dong. Tucked between the tombs and the river, Hwangnam-dong is a small neighborhood but it’s got a number of interesting places worth checking out. It’s getting a face lift at the moment since they’re turning the entire place into a folk village as well as rebuilding the ancient Woljeonggyo (월정교) bridge across the river.
Main Hall, Choe Family Home
Even though it doesn’t date quite as far back as the Shilla Dynasty, one of the cooler places to visit in Hwangnam-dong is the ancestral home of the Choe clan(최씨고탁), a yangban (aristocratic) family from the Chosun Dynasty. In Korea there’s a proverb that wealth doesn’t go beyond 3 generations in a family. The Choe family kept theirs for 10 generations. This was largely due to the famous 12 precepts laid down by the founder.
Precepts of the Choe Family
Modern oligarchs could learn a lot from these precepts which emphasize the aristocracy’s responsibility and need for compassion towards their tenant farmers. Among other things, the precepts enjoined the family to ensure no one starved to death in a 40 miles radius, not buy land from farmers during famine years, not to over tax grain during the surplus years and not to get involved in high-level politics. The Choe family’s wealth only came to an end when they donated it all to a national endowment upon Korea’s independence at the end of WW2.
Main Hall, Home of the Choe Clan
The home itself is quite a beautiful piece of traditional Korean architecture. Check out the stone lamp in the courtyard and the traditional ondol (온돌) or under floor heating systems. Several courtyards wind back from the central one, so feel free to poke around and explore. Don’t be afraid to go into the main hall either; just remember to take off your shoes first.
Inside the main hall
While you’re there, see if you can have a chat with the care taker, Mr. Choe Yong-Bu. He’s a very warm and welcoming man who was an English tour guide for Gyeongju City for many years. He speaks excellent English and has a short 10 minute explanation he gives on the history and significance of the Choe family. Also he can answer any other questions you might have on the history of Gyeongju or the Shilla Dynasty.
Back Courtyard, Choe Family Home
Directions: From Chomseondae Observatory walk towards Banwolseong Fortress. Take your first right, just past Gyerim forest. Follow this road a couple hundred meters past the forest and the Gyeongju Confucian Academy. When you reach the large parking lot in the middle of Hwangnam-dong, turn right. It’s just at the end of the parking lot, next to the Choe family’s old
English Map to Choe Family Home (click to enlarge)
