If you’re into Korean food but you’re tired of the chain restaurants downtown or student samgyeopsal (삼겹살) joints in Seonggeon-dong, there’s a little road running between the two that’s probably just what you need. On a 3 block strip there are about 20 Korean restaurants and I haven’t been disappointed yet by any I’ve been to. They serve everything from hoe (회) or “raw fish”, Chueotang (추어탕) or “mudfish soup”, bossam (보쌈) or “steamed pork”, to blowfish (복) and yeongyangtang (영양탕) or “dog soup”.
The biggest restaurant on the street is Cheonghakdong (청학동). It may not be as exotic as blow fish or dog soup, but my wife and I come here about once a month. They’ve got a number of things on the menu, but we always got for the 2 course set of barbequed duck (오리 바베큐) and pumpkin rice (영양호박밥). It’s 55,000 won for the set and it serves 3 or 4 people.
The first course of barbecued duck comes out on a sizzling hot plate served with fried onions. You can eat it wrapped up in sesame leaves or slices of pickled radish, burrito style, with raw garlic or onions. Or if you please, you can eat it straight or dipped in hot mustard.
The second course is a piping hot plate of baked pumpkin stuffed with whole grain rice, beans, nuts, jujubes and ginseng. It comes with more assorted sides and a piping hot bowl of doenjang jjige (된장찌개) that’s got a nice spicy kick.
Maybe it’s the whole poultry and pumpkin combo, but eating here always reminds me of American Thanksgiving (it’s probably the closest they got around here anyways). Cheonfhakdong’s great if you’re a fan of Korean cuisine but get tired of the spice. It’s warm, hearty food that’s especially great on a cold Winter’s day.
Directions: From Downtown Gyeongju , start at Nodongri (노동리) tomb next to the Terrace and Il Basilico restaurants. Follow the remainder of N.R. 35 (the road with the new fountains and Cheomseogdae Observatory shaped lamp posts) north past all the art shops. Cross over the main road (running to the train station) and continue on for two blocks past the courthouse (on your right) and the hospital (on your left). Cheonghakdong is on the 2nd street corned on the left with the big parking lot.
Or, you could just print of the business card below and show it to the taxi driver…







