Probably my top pick of things to do when visiting Gyeongju is to go for a walk around Anapji Pond (안압지) at night. Sure, Anapji’s worth checking out during the day, but when the sun goes down it really blings. The city’s done a great job with lighting, though some might say its a bit on the tacky side. But hey, I’m a sucker for pretty lights, so I love it. It’s great for a romantic stroll with your significant other. Or, if you’re into photography, bring your camera and a tripod and score some great night shots. I wouldn’t recommend doing both at the same time though, just ask my wife
Over a millennia ago, Anapji, or “duck and geese pond”, was know by the slightly more romantic moniker of “moon pond” or Wolji (월지). It was originally dug as part of Imhaejioen Pleasure Palace (임해전), built by King Munmu the Great (문무왕) in 674 C.E in commemoration of the unification of the Korean peninsula. The shape of Anapji Pond mirrors that of Korea, so the King could gaze out upon his “kingdom” from the palace. Back in the day, the surrounding gardens and the islands in the pond were stocked with exotic plants along with rare birds and animals, like peacocks and deer. To top it off, King Munmu had hills resembling the famed 12 peaks of Mu-san Mountain in China built around the edge of the gardens.
In King Munmu’s day, Imhaejeon Palace could hold up to a thousand people. Hence it became an important place for diplomatic meetings during the Unified Shilla Dynasty (신라). It was here 300 hundred years later that the last Shilla Emperor Gyeongsun (경순왕) abdicated what remained of the crumbling Shilla Kingdom to the Goryeo King Wong Geon in the 10th Cen. C.E, ending the final chapter of the 1,000 years of the Shilla Dynasty.
These days the grounds of Imhaejoen Palace are more likely to bus tours than kings and Chinese envoys, and the current pavilions are only a quarter of the size of the original palace. Anapji pond itself was excavated in the mid 1970’s, revealing a treasure trove of over 30,000 artifacts. It was then restored to what was believed to be it’s original shape around 1976.
As you go through the gate you’ll see the 3 reconstructed pavillions straight ahead. If you’re inclined, take a few minutes to check out the exhibitions there. The first pavilion’s got an elaborate scale model of the Woljeonggyo Bridge (월정교), currently being rebuilt on the west side of Banwolseong Palace (반월성). The next one houses a scale model of the original Imhaejeon Palace. It’s pretty cool, but the artifacts recovered from the pond are a bit more fun. Look for the remains of roof tiles depicting some freaky looking Dokkaebi (도깨비), or Korean Goblins. My favorite though are the 14 sided dice the Shilla royalty used for drinking games. Sounds like King Munmu the Great might have fit right in with the fraternity brothers at TKE.
From here it’s just an easy 15 or 20 minute stroll around the rest of the pond. The views of the pavilions back over the water are just gorgeous. It also give you an idea of the original splendor of the Imhaejeon Palace gardens (though I doubt they had rainbow lights back in the days of the Shilla). Fortunately, they’ve recently redone the path, so you’re less likely to stub your toe now.
If the weather’s right, Anapji Pond makes a great night walk along with the remains of Banwolseong Palace (반월성) and Cheomseongdae Observatory (첨성대), just across the road (more on that soon). Anapji pond is only about a 2,200 cab ride, or about a half hour walk, from downtown. The gates stay open until 10:00 pm and entrance is a paltry 1,000 won.
During the warmer par of the year (April through October) Anapji hosts concerts on Saturday night that are free with the price of admission. Apr., May, Sept. and Oct. concerts run from 7:30 – 9:00 pm. They start a bit later during the summer months, going from 8:00 – 9:30 pm.
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