Yeongcheon National Cemetery (국립영천호국원): Memorial to the Fallen the Korean War

Yeongcheon National Cemetery and Memorial

Yeongcheon National Cemetery and Memorial

Back in the U.S., the Korean War is often referred to as the “Forgotten War.”  It might be said then in S. Korea that it’s a war the people would like to forget, but can’t.  Looking around at all the high rise buildings, cell phone shops and internet cafes, it is difficult to imagine that just a few generations ago this country was torn apart by a devastating civil war that cost millions of lives and left most of the peninsula in smoldering ruins.  Yet the horrendous suffering of the war, along with the rending in half of a nation and people, are buried deep in the Korean national psyche.

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Gyeongju Videos on the Korean Heritage Channel

 

The other day I was rummaging around on Youtube for videos to fill out a playlist on Gyeongjublog’s fledgling Youtube Channel and I stumbled across some amazing videos on something called the Korean Heritage Channel.  I know I use far too many superlatives on this blog already, but this channel features some of the best promotional videos I’ve seen produced on Korea.   Some might say that’s wouldn’t be too difficult considering the schmaltzy overdubbed travel schlock typically broadcast on Arirang.  However these videos are of a different class entirely.  They’re each brief 2 to 3 minute long vignettes of rich HD footage tastefully edited together with traditional music and subtitled commentary. 

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Weird Gyeongju: The Wooden Fish Knocker of Bunhwangsa (분황사) Temple

Wooden Fish Knocker, Bunhwangsa Temple, Gyeongju

Wooden Fish Knocker, Bunhwangsa Temple, Gyeongju

As one of the few architectural structures left standing from the Silla Dynasty, Bunhwangsa (분황사) Temple is one of the “must see” historical sites in Gyeongju.  Built in 634 C.E. by order of the legendary Queen Seondeok (선덕여왕), Bunhwangsa is most famous for its three-tiered pagoda.  Originally built as seven or nine tiers, the pagoda was badly damaged during both the Mongolian Invasions of the 13th century, when the neighboring Hwangnyeongsa Temple (황룡사) and nine-story pagoda were burned to the ground, and again during the Hideyoshi Invasion of 1592.  Curiously, the pagoda was built in “imitation brick” style, meaning that Silla workmen actually took the time to carve stones into the shapes of bricks to imitate the brick pagodas then fashionable in China.  Seems to me like it would’ve been a lot easier to make it out of actual bricks, but I’ll leave the debate over that minor detail up to the historians.

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Restaurant Review # 21: Fine Dining at 11 Chesterfield Way

11 Chesterfield Way, Fine Dining in Gyeongju

11 Chesterfield Way, Fine Dining in Gyeongju

This is perhaps my first ever official retraction here on Gyeongjublog.  In my last post I was complaining about the terrible selection of western restaurants here in Gyeongju.  Although my criticisms regarding “craptapulous fast-food joints” and “so-called Italian restaurants downtown” still stand, I made these comments before being introduced to the fine dining of 11 Chesterfield Way.  We had the pleasure of joining friends at 11 Chesterfield Way for dinner on New Year’s Eve and I dare say that it was the best western food I’ve had in Gyeongju, if not the whole of Korea. 

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Restaurant Review #20: Hyundai Hotel Christmas Lunch Buffet

Christmas at the Hyundai Hotel, Gyeongju

Christmas at the Hyundai Hotel, Gyeongju

“Christmas” and “Gyeongju” are probably mentioned in the same sentence about as often as “Nascar” and “feta cheese.”  However, like any tourist destination with a thriving resort industry, Christmas does indeed come to Gyeongju, and it does so with its own unique style.    Over the last decade Christmas in Korea has gone from being observed only by devout Christians to a holiday much heralded by shop keepers and romantic couples alike.  The resulting Christmas festivities I’ve heard one sour Scrooge describe as being “just not quite right.”  Indeed, the florescent cross-cultural fusion with which Koreans celebrate Christmas probably has both Christmas and Korean traditionalists spinning in their graves.  However, as an aficionado of international kitsch, I can only applaud in glee.  For what two things on earth are kitschier than Christmas and Korea?  It’s truly a match made in Heaven, or Hell depending who you ask.

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“The Bridge” Traditional Korean Music Concert This Friday at 7:00 pm

"The Bridge" Traditional Korean Music Concert Friday 7:00 pm

"The Bridge" Traditional Korean Music Concert Friday 7:00 pm

It’s been a while, or should I say long while, since I last posted. My apologies. I’ve been swamped with writing papers for my Masters degree, so I haven’t had much time for blogging I’m afraid. Still, this is something worth positing about, so I’m hoping to get the word out in time. My friend Dongyoon from Dongguk just emailed me that the second annual “Bridge” concert is being held this coming Friday at 7:00pm. “The Bridge” is a special concert organized by the Dongguk University Traditional Korean Music majors to help introduce traditional Korean music to foreign residents and visitors.

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Slideshow: Autumn in Namsan-dong (남산동) Village

Muryangsa Temple, Namsan-dong, Gyeognju

Muryangsa Temple, Namsan-dong, Gyeognju

To be honest the Korean urban lifestyle doesn’t really do much for me.  Sure, I sometimes miss the art and culture, the night clubs and the convenience.  But after living in London, Berlin and Barcelona, there’s really not anything new that I get out of big cities in Korea.  All it takes is a walk through one of the many quaint and quiet farm villages near Gyeongju to remind me why I like living with the Korean countryside so close at hand.   One of my favorite places to visit is Namsan-dong (남산동);  a string of farming villages just 15 minutes outside of town tucked in the shadow of Gyeongju’s historic Mt. Namsan (남산).

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Gampo’s Najeong Beach (나정해수욕장)

Najeong Beach, Gyeongju

Najeong Beach, Gyeongju

Unfortunately, this is another story that’s coming just a bit late for summer vacation, but then again I’m one of those odd folks who actually prefer going to the beach in autumn.  Perhaps the subtle melancholy in the air suites my temperament more, or maybe I just don’t like crowded beaches in summer.  Either way, the other weekend we were hosting friends from out of town, so we packed up and headed out to Gampo’s Najeong Beach (나정해수욕장) for a seaside picnic.

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Fall Events in Gyeongju: Temple Food, Hallyu Dreams, Liquor and Rice Cake, Marathons and more

Gyeongju Liquor and Rice Cake Festival, 2010

Gyeongju Liquor and Rice Cake Festival, 2010

The official start of fall is less than a week away, meaning it’s time again for some of the best weather in Korea and its accompanying  frenzy of festivals.   Here in Gyeongju we can look forward to a few old favorites plus some changes and special events.  First off, both vegetarians and Buddhist culture aficionados will want to check out the first annual Sachal Eumshik (사찰 음식), or Temple Food, Festival out at Deoksungsa Temple (덕숭사) next Saturday, Sept. 24th.   Contrary to popular belief (of many Koreans, in fact) Korea has a rich and delicious tradition of vegetarian cuisine rooted in the country’s numerous Buddhist temples.  Sachal Eumshik can be savored at several restaurants around Gyeongju, like Baru in Seondo-dong or Ssukbujaengi near Bomun.

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Camping and Cabins in the Mt. Tohamsan Recreational Forest (토함산 자연휴양림)

Camping at Mt. Tohamsan Recreational Forest

Camping at Mt. Tohamsan Recreational Forest

This post is coming a little too late for the summer, but  I’m posting it anyhow for those who might be interested in doing some camping this fall or are already kicking around ideas for their next vacation.  For years I’ve heard that there there’s a campground at the Mt. Tohamsan at the Recreational Forest (토함산 자연휴양림), but I’ve never been up there to check it.  Growing up in  Virginia, I used to go camping at least a couple times a year, so I’ve been curious about it for a while now.

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