Category Archives: Statues & carvings

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A Korean obsession

By Paul Lawley-Jones

Koreans who take up wood carving often seem to develop an obsession with certain parts of the body, particularly the penis. Indeed, the penis appears in many places from ancient petroglyphs, Shilla pottery, Shamanic shrines and modern bottle tops and cups. There is also a lesser obsession with the breast. The carved faces on the trunks of trees are seen everywhere around Korea as the male and female protective spirits at the entrance to a village. I still wonder, though, what the significance of the mildly stupid looking expressions is.

A wood carver in whose house we stayed on Seokmo-do one summer informed us that the curved shape of the end of the penis was quite challenging to carve, and consequently demonstrated a certain level of skill. I guess the same goes for the shape of the breast as well.

These carvings inhabit the car park of the Doridon (도리돈) restaurant on the way to Bulguksa.

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Buddhist culture Bulguk-dong Gyeongju holidays Statues & carvings Temples & shrines tips for tourists

Special Events for Buddha’s Birthday (석가탄신일): Friday, May 21st

Coming up in about a week and a half is my absolute favorite holiday in Korea: Seokga Tanshinil (석가탄신일), or Buddha’s Birthday.   Every temple in Korea celebrates Buddha’s Birthday one way or another.  Most hang lanterns, have special ceremonies and serve a special group lunch or dinner for parishioners.  A few of the larger or more historically important temples will host special musical performances or hold a lantern parade in the evening, just after sun down.

This year, Seokga Tanshinil falls on Friday, May 21st.  In Gyeongju, there are 3 particularly special events that happen for Buddha’s Birthday that shouldn’t be missed.  If you’ve got a car, or you’re adventurous with public transit, you could easily hit all 3: read more »

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Buddhist culture Gyeongju history Statues & carvings tips for tourists Top 10

Top 10 Ancient Stone Buddhas (석불) of Gyeongju: Part 2 of 2

Buddha Boulder of Tapgol Valley, Mt. Namsan Gyeongju

Buddha Boulder of Tapgol Valley, Mt. Namsan Gyeongju

Continued from Part 1:

5.  The Buddha Boulder (부처바위) of Tapgol Valley (탑골): Tucked behind the quaint beauty of Oknyeongam Hermitage (옥룡암) in Tapgol (pagoda) Valley is a large rock outcropping covered with Buddhist carvings.  There are dozens of cryptic images including meditating Buddhas, flying Devas, pagodas, and even winged lions!  The quiet magic of Oknyeongam Hermitage and the mystery of Buddha Boulder make Pagoda Valley one of my favorite spots on Namsan.

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Buddhist culture Gyeongju history Statues & carvings tips for tourists Top 10

Top 10 Ancient Stone Buddhas (석불) of Gyeongju: Part 1 of 2

Maitreya Buddha of Samneung Valley, Gyeongju

Maitreya Buddha of Samneung Valley, Gyeongju

One of the cool things about Gyeongu is that it’s literally covered with ancient stone Buddhas from the Unified Shilla Dynasty (통일 신라), most dating back to around the 7th or 8th centuries C.E.  Very little is generally known about the sculptors who chiseled out these masterpieces way back when, though they were probably carved as a form of Buddhist meditation practice.  Heck, every mountain around here has at least one ancient Buddha on it and Mt. Namsan (남산) has at least a few dozen.

If you’re a history junky like me, or you’re just looking to do some hiking or sight-seeing, here are my personal top 10 ancient stone Buddhas of Gyeongju.  As this post has snowballed into something bigger than I’d planned, so I’m splitting it into 2 parts. Here are 10 through 6 on my list.  I’ll be posting my top 5 here in a day or two.

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Buddhist culture Festivals Food & drink Gyeongju hiking restaurants Ruins & remains Statues & carvings Temples & shrines tips for tourists Top 10

My Gyeongju Top 10

I know it’s all the trend these days, but I figured it was about time I sat down and wrote out my personal top ten “to do” list for Gyeongju.  Some of these I’ve posted on already, and if I haven’t yet, I hope to soon. So here they are in brief; counting down from 10 to 1:

Bunghwangsa Temple, Gyeongju

Bunghwangsa Temple, Gyeongju

10. Take a walk around the ancient, 3-storied pagoda of Bunghwangsa (분황사) Temple when the fall leaves are changing. read more »

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Gyeongju hiking Namsan-dong Statues & carvings Temples & shrines tips for tourists

Hiking Route: Chilbulam Hermitage (칠불암)

Chilbulam Hermitage (칠불암)

Chilbulam Hermitage (칠불암)

 I’ve been running this blog now for almost 3 months and it’s nearly criminal I’ve not said anything yet about Mt. Namsan (남산) as I think it’s one of the coolest things about Gyeongju. Mt. Namsan’s not nearly as tall as some of the mountains around here (just under 500 meters actually) but what makes it so special is that it’s covered with over 100 stone Buddha’s and other Shilla Dynasty relics dating back about 1,500 years.  It’s also got some pretty gnarly rock formations and a fair share of Buddhist temples, which can make for some fun hikes.  read more »

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Buddhist culture East Sea Gyeongju Statues & carvings Temples & shrines tips for tourists

Golgulsa Temple (골굴사)

Sakyamuni Buddha, Golgulsa Temple (골굴사)

Sakyamuni Buddha, Golgulsa Temple (골굴사)

Though it’s not quite Korea’s answer to the Shaolin Monastery of China, Golgulsa Temple (골굴사) is one of the more unique temples in the Gyeongju area and it’s pretty darn cool. If you’re on your way over to King Munmu’s tomb (문무대왕릉) on the East Coast, it’s well worth taking an hour or so to stop off here and check it out. read more »

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Bulguk-dong Gyeongju Statues & carvings Stories, legends & people

The Legend of Asadal (아사달) and Asanyeo (아산여)

The Legend of Asadal and Asanyeo (exterior of "Asadal" bar in Gyeongju)

If you’ve had the pleasure of visiting Bulguksa temple (불국사), you’ve probably admired the twin masterpieces of Seokgatap (석가탑) and Dabotap (다보탑) pagodas in the main courtyard (if you haven’t yet, Dabotap is on the face side of the 10 won coin).  What you may not have known is that there is a tragic legend of Shakespearean proportions tied to these pagodas.  In fact, it’s this legend that’s given them their nicknames of Yongtap, or “Shadow Pagoda”, and Muyongtap, or “No Shadow Pagoda.” read more »

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Other Outside Gyeongju Statues & carvings

Prehistoric Carvings of Cheonjeon-ri (천전리 각석)

Prehistoric Carvings of Cheonjeon-ri (천전 리각석)

After four and a half years living in Gyeongju, we finally decided to get a car last week.  So for it’s first road trip, my friend and I set off  to check out the prehistoric rock carvings of  Cheonjeon-ri (천전 리각석). I’d never been there before and they’re only about 20 minutes south of Gyeongju, just off of  N.R. 35. read more »

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Buddhist culture Cycling Routes Gyeongju Statues & carvings Temples & shrines tips for tourists

Cycling Route: Buddha Triad of Dudaeri (두대리마애석불입상)

Dudaeri Buddha Triad

Dudaeri Buddha Triad

Sure, in Gyeongju Mt. Namsan (남산) has the lion’s share of ancient Shilla (신라) statues and carvings, so it’s well worth taking the time to explore if you can.  But the truth is, most of the surrounding mountains have atl east one ancient Buddha that’s pretty cool.  Plus the other mountains aren’t crawling with hiking clubs and bus tours  on the weekend, like Namsan.  Some places, you might not see a single other soul. read more »

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